You Know You Have A Knitting Problem When . . . #213

. . . when you know you should be finishing your lovely Woodfords cardigan in Madeline Tosh Merino Light, but you are soooo sick of it,

and so you won't allow yourself to cast on another project (although you really, really want to start Ardyth in beautiful gray Shibui Baby Alpaca), so instead you work on small charity knitting projects

and soon you are building a mountain of them . . .  

Yes, I Teach, Too!

Recently I've had several inquiries for the classes I teach.  Here's the current roster (updated 9/23/16):

Cast On Conundrum

Rumor has it that there are over 50 different cast-on methods! We'll learn a few of the most practical and versatile – including long-tail, cable, crochet & provisional - and the merits and drawbacks of each. This is an invaluable class that will change the way you start every new project.

Time:  3 hours

Class Limit: 10 students

Homework:  No homework.

NEW! Color Made Easy: Working with Long Color-Changing and Gradient Yarns

Description:  How are long color-changing and gradient yarns easy?  The hard work of choosing colors has been done for you.  The challenge is in selecting stitch patterns and project shapes that show them at their best.   We will play with stripes, slip stitches, stranded color work and modular knitting.  With over a dozen published designs using these yarns, Theresa has plenty of tips and tricks to share to lead you to color success. 

Time:  3 hours.

Class Limit: 25 students.

Skills Required: Intermediate. 

Homework:  No homework.

Class materials:  A long color-changing yarn, such as Noro, and/or gradient yarn (ball or set), a coordinating solid of the same weight, 24" circular needle appropriately sized for your yarn. 

Class Materials Fee:  None.

A Means to an End 

Description:  A class in joining yarns.  To knot or not to knot, that is the question.  Usually the answer is ‘not to knot’, so we’ll cover methods of hidden joins such as spit-splicing and the Russian join, and which method works best in each fiber type.  If you must knot, we’ll discuss how to secure knots and invisibly weave in ends. 

Time:  3 hours

Homework:  No homework.

Intro to Entrelac

Description:  Learn how simple it is to create the complex knitted effect of woven basketry.  Entrelac is a fun technique that breaks out of the box of long, horizontal knitted rows.  This class will get you started on an entrelac scarf or washcloth.  The skill of knitting back backwards will also be covered. 

Time:  3 hours

Homework:  No homework.

 Mad for Plaid

Description:  Plaids are a traditional woven fabric pattern which can be replicated in knitting via several techniques: slip stitches, two-stranded intarsia, applied crochet chain and surface weaving. We’ll learn a few, including some where the pattern is worked as you knit, and some where the color work is added after the knitting is completed.  A highlight is applied crochet chains, a neat trick to create plaids or embellish any knitted garment. 

Time: 3 hours

Craft Your Own Spaghetti Yarn

Description:  Learn how to create cotton 'spaghetti' yarn from your old t-shirts, plastic bags and felted sweaters. This technique also creates yarn from old jeans fine gauge commercial sweaters.  We'll cover the tricks for continuous spiral cutting, and use the yarn we create for a quick knit or crochet project.  We'll also have fun combining our spaghetti yarns to make colorful and fun necklaces.

Time:  3 hours

Homework:  None.

The Thrifty Knitter

Discover how recycling can be the frugal knitter or crocheter's best kept secret.  Learn where and how to spot good sweaters for re-use.  Discover the tricks as we unraveling yarn from existing garments, plus how to use that yarn in new projects.  The cheapest (and greenest!) way to fill your stash with cashmere!

Time: 3 hours.

Homework:  None.

Using Ravelry to Find Your Perfect Pattern

With the growth of Ravelry, knitters and crocheters now have tens of thousands of sweater patterns from which to choose.  Where do you begin?  Not with ‘Hot Right Now’!  Start with an overview of the design details which will help you appear taller and slimmer, as well as the guides to flatter your specific figure.  Then go snoop shopping to test those rules on your body.  Finally, learn how to use the Ravelry search features to narrow down those pattern options for a sweater that will look great on you.  

Time:  3 hours

Homework:  None.

60- to 90- Minute Classes

In addition to being standalone classes, these can be combined into a 3-hour class format. 

End to End

Description:  A class in joining yarns.  To knot or not to knot, that is the question.  Usually the answer is ‘not to knot’, so we’ll cover methods of hidden joins such as spit-splicing and the Russian join, and which method works best in each fiber type.  If you must knot, we’ll discuss how to secure knots.

Time:  90 minutes.

Class Limit: 25 students.

Skills Required: None.

Homework:  No homework.

Class materials:  Scrap yarn in various fibers, tapestry needle, scissors. 

Class Materials Fee:  None.

NEW! Finishing School: Binding Off

Most knitters only ever use one bind off, but there are many more from which to use.  They may be more elastic, sturdier, or prettier than the traditional bind off.  Come and give yourself some better options for your next project.

Time:  60 minutes.

Class Limit:  12 students.

Skills Required: Beginner.

Homework:  Using worsted or dk weight yarn, cast on 24 stitches and work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 48 rows/24 ridges.  Do not bind off. 

Class materials:  Your homework on the needles, plus two more colors of yarn in the same weight. 

Class Materials Fee:  None.

Finishing School: Blocking

Knit projects don't come off the needles in perfect shape.  The stitches need to be put in their place.  Learn the tips and tricks to expert blocking and bring out the beauty in your next project. 

Time:  60 minutes.

Class Limit: 25 students.

Skills Required: Beginner.

Homework:  No homework.

Class materials: None.  Optional: Bring along a project for which you'd like blocking advice.

Class Materials Fee:  None.

Finishing School: Weaving in Ends

Every knit or crochet project begins and ends with a tail of yarn - and often we have many more loose ends in between.  Learn how to best secure and hide those ends either by working them in as you go, or weaving them in when done. 

Time:  60 minutes.

Class Limit: 25 students.

Skills Required: Beginner.

Homework:  No homework.

Class materials:  Scrap yarn, tapestry needle, scissors.  A project on the needles to practice weaving as you go.  A piece of hand knitting to practice weaving in ends. 

Class Materials Fee:  None.

If you would like more information or to book any of these classes, contact me via Ravelry or at ttschabes@sbcglobal.net.  I also offer a group talk based on my 'Using Ravelry to Find Your Perfect Pattern' class which has more focus on the guidelines for appearing taller and slimmer.  

Ready For Autumn?

Knit Simple Fall 2015,
photo by Jack Deutsch

This past week I had a new pattern make its debut, and an old pattern make its first appearance on Ravelry.

My newest pattern appears in the Fall 2015 issue of Knit Simple, and it really speaks to fall.   It's also a blast from my past.  I created this pattern years ago for the class I taught at Knitche in Downer's Grove, IL.  The class was based on Ann Norling's classic baby fruit hat pattern.  While there are strawberries, raspberries, grapes, lemons, etc., there was no pumpkin.  So, not only did I offer it to the class, I made it a part of my own toddler's Halloween costume.  

My hat is different than some of the others out there in that the pumpkin's ribs start above the rolled band, and the stem is carries up and tied into a knot.  The stem does not begin until the top of the hat, a variation you might also want to make for a grape, apple or peach hat.  Knit Simple provided me with green yarn for the stem, but a tan color might be more realistic.  That said, in the original modeled by my daughter at left, the stem is green and I added some green leaves as accent.  If you are similarly inspired, there are many leaf patterns available.  I recommended Nicky Epstein's books as a reference.

Knitter's Magazine #88, Fall 2007
Photo credit: XRX

The second pattern to make a debut last week was Earthy from the Fall 2007 issue of Knitter's Magazine (#88).  Somehow when the magazine was loaded on Ravelry, my design was omitted.  A kind knitter pointed this out to me, and with a little help from the Rav staff, we got it fixed.   Issue #88 is out of print, but you can probably find a knitter willing to de-stash their copy.  Earthy is a simple men's pullover.  The saddle sleeves are plain stockinette and the front and back are a simple knit-purl stitch combination using the solid and a coordination variegated yarn.  The design is classic, and still as wearable today as when it was published nine years ago.

How Knitting Skills Save You Money: Retail Edition

A natural consequence of a growing interest in knitting is an ever-increasing stack of receipts from your yarn shop.  Yesterday, however, I was able to use those knitting skills and save money.

I had to make a quick trip to Chicagoland, and just had time to make my favorite detour to the Eileen Fisher Company Store in Schaumberg (home of Stitches Midwest).  On the damaged goods rack I found a beautiful navy blue lace and stockinette stitch pullover that I had admired on the mannequin in the front of the shop.  And marked down to only $29 from an original $158!  The damage tag clearly stated 'small hole', but neither I nor the sales clerk could find it, so I confidently strode off to the dressing room.

Well, in putting on the sweater, I did my usual 'horizontal stretch'.  This is a maneuver I learned from Trinny and Susanna, of the originally British What Not to Wear tv show.  Whenever I put on a knit top, I use my lower arms to pull it horizontally.  This fights gravity to create a little extra width, allowing the top to flow over my wobbly midsection, rather than cling to - and highlight - its excess.  Once the sweater was on, I found that my maneuver had revealed the hole and made the stitch drop down a couple inches.

No panic!  I carefully removed the sweater and examined the damage.  The run was fortunately in the stockinette section.  Had it been in the lace section I would not be telling this story.  The run began at the shoulder seam and ran down the arm, so I knew it was an easy fix.  I asked the sales clerk for a safety pin to secure the last intact loop of the dropped stitch.  If she'd not had one handy, I would have used a paper clip, or even some string.  Then I made my purchase.

Arriving home, I pulled out a tiny steel crochet hook and threaded a sewing needle with navy blue yarn.  Small hooks are not too hard to find, for although not many crocheters work with thread these days, may knitters use them for attaching beads.  I removed the safety pin and with the right side facing, inserted the crochet hook through the stitch from front to back.  *I grabbed the ladder from the next row up, and pulled it through the loop on the hook; repeat from * to top.  Take your time, work in a well lit space and lay out your piece so that you make sure you pick up the ladders in order.  

When you reach the top, use your sewing needle and matching thread to sew the last live loop to the seam.  My seam has enough bulk to provide a secure anchor and hide the funny business.

The completed fix was not in any way invisible.  Against the plain stockinette stitches, it was decidedly wonky.

I gave it a little steam and tugged the surrounding stitches first horizontally and then vertically.  This improved the appearance of the fix somewhat, but a few wearings and a trip through the laundry and I predict it will be invisible.

Here's a shot of the repaired sweater.  Ten minutes of my time saved  $129 off the retail price.  Who says knitting doesn't pay?

(And for those of you who say that I wasn't actually saving money because I spent $29 - well, I say everyone occasionally needs a little retail therapy.)

'Bye to the Bling

Shall we say goodbye to the accessories?

This thread began last week as I recorded the sweaters I have knit that are moving out of my life.  Time to purge.  These were class samples, out-grown, or in a style I no longer admire.  Yes, it is hard to let go of hand-made projects, but it you don't get rid of what you no longer desire, there is no room to bring in what you now want.

 This pillow was created as a sample for a class that never ended up running.  It was inspired by the bag I contributed to the Bag Style book - a combination of knitting and weaving.  The yarn is a Donegal tweed,so it does not make for a comfy pillow.  My decor has also moved away from blues and greens, so this need to move along, too.

The next item was a good time while it lasted.  One of the first classes I taught was on this original design - a shoulder wrap done in a multitude of novelty yarns.  One of my students wore hers to a wedding and had another guest buy it right off her shoulders - one of my best compliments, ever.  But, my version has never been work by me as peach and yellow are not - and never have been - my colors.

 Another decorative wrap that is going away is my first real crochet project.  I worked this up sitting on the beach in Douglas, Michigan.  As my first crochet project, I spent as much time staring at the photo as in reading the directions.  Little did I know that is often the case with crochet.  There are more options as to where you can put your next stitch than you can clearly describe in written text.  The yarn is a variegated chainette bamboo that was left over from my much-worn feather-and-fan skirt.  I was so proud of this little poncho - but I've only worn it maybe twice.

 Next up are my double-knit belts.  These were fun little projects for a class I taught several times.  But, I haven't taught it in years, and haven't worn any belt in longer than that!  The top belt was worked in a (now discontinued) ultrasuede-like Berocco yarn.  The bottom belt is in Rowan Denim.

 This linen stitch scarf was a more recent project.  This was not my own design, but from Churchmouse Yarns & Teas.  Linen stitch is very dense, so the knit goes very slowly.  This scarf is a reject because, although I like my scarves long, this one is way too long.  Here it's folded in half with a loose loop at the neck - and it still hangs below crotch length.  The yarn is a combination of a solid, a variegated, and one with long color changes.  The latter led to some cool effects, including a lime green stripe running vertically down the center of the scarf.  But, it was never worn.  This scarf will go to the Madison Knitter's Guild charity project.

Last is another set of class samples, this time of Kirsten Johnstone's sev[en] circle.  An oldie by a goodie.  Although I wear a lot of necklaces, scarves and cowls, I seldom wore these.  Both were knit from sock yarn, and that's about all I can remember about the yarn.

 Next week we'll move onto new stuff.

Goodbye, Old Friends

The spring purge struck hard this year.  Our new home in Wisconsin is slowly being updated, and, as a result, most of the knick-knacks and clutter have remained in their moving boxes.  And, I have come to realize, those boxes should never be unpacked.  I am enjoying the clean, fresh look of our new home and need to send accumulated bits and bob onto to new homes.

This applies to the knitwear, too.  I have hung on to nearly all my hand knit sweaters.  In the past I could justify this as many were class samples.  But, now that I am focusing my teaching on larger events and not my local yarn shop, the samples can go.  But, before they make their way out, I thought I would memorialize them here, as all of them are pre-Ravelry.  (Or at least before I started logging my projects there.)

. . .  Loves Me. . .
Knitter's Magazine #84

Today, the sweaters.



This first sweater has sentimental value, as it was my first published design in Knitter's Magazine.  To celebrate, I worked my own version in Cascade 220.  I think I wore it twice.  The fit was good, but I just do not care for worsted weight sweaters.  It also no longer fits, so it is easy to let it go.



This next sweater is a class sample.  It's the Faith Jacket from Sally Melville from The Knitting Experience:  Book 3.  This is a great design for beginner knitters with lots of skill-building opportunity.  Unfortunately, it's another worsted weight yarn (a thick-and-thin spun Malabrigo)  It is also very over-sized and lacking good drape.  So, out it goes.











Next on the hit list is a real oldie.  This is a Rowan Denim cardi to which I made significant alterations.  Can't remember what they were, but I know I did.  This is the sweater I would be most like to be wearing - of only it fit.  (Here's a hint - any sweater photographed on the gray mannequin no longer fits.  My body is now plus-sized mannequin, for sure.)



This little rib warmer was a popular pattern at Knitche.  Several of us knit it.  Can't remember the name of the pattern, but I think the yarn is Blue Sky Alpacas Sportweight.

And last, but not least, is Elizabeth Zimmerman's rib warmer.  This was another class sample, which you can tell since the paper tag is still hanging off it.  No longer my size, no longer my colors.  Bye.

Snoop Shopping

My snoop shopping trip

Last week I gave you some guideline for choosing sweater patterns to flatter your figure.  Why?  Because after investing your time and money in a hand knit sweater, you should be happy thrilled with the results.  But, these guidelines are theoretical until you actually test them on you.  And, the fastest and cheapest way to do that is with . . .

snoop shopping.

You are going to hit the stores, but leave your wallet at home.  The goal is to try on all kinds of styles and test the rules.  Pick sweaters you think will be flattering AND sweaters you think will be awful  – you might be surprised.

So, where should I snoop shop?  Department stores have lots of variety, which cuts down on the number of trips to the dressing room.  Or, you can go to a shop where you know you like the styles, although that may limit your opportunities to explore new options.  I recommend that you be aspirational and snoop even where you can’t afford to buy.  Why snoop shop at the Gap when you can buy a sweater there for less than the price of the yarn.  Too depressing!  If you do shop at a higer end store, dress nicely for good service.  Shopping on a good hair day and putting on a little make-up (if you wear it) will also take the focus off you and on the sweaters. 

What do you need to bring to the store?

·         Camera / Cell phone

·         Measuring tape

·         Optional:

·                 Gauge check tool

·                 Paper and pencil

What do you need to wear to the store?

·         A good bra

o   If you need a new one, that should be your first stop at the mall

o   With the girls boosted up into place, you will look slimmer

·         Thin camisole or tank top

·         If you are trying on bottoms along with sweaters . . .

o   Shoes that slip on and off easily

When you arrive to shop, grab all kinds of sweaters to try.  And, try other garments for their style lines.  Sweatshirts are great as a test, because their weight simulates a knitted fabric.  Once you find a style you like, take photos of you wearing the sweater: 

·         front and back views

·         special details

·         pattern stitches

Also capture the garment tag information – especially the fiber content.  If you are trying on a sweater, check the gauge.  

The paper and pencil were optional tools for you to bring because you can capture sizing information with your camera.  Take a large photo to see what is being measured and then zoom in close to read the tape measure.  

When you get home, relax and put your feet up.  Look at your photos.  I’ve found it’s much easier for me to be objective looking at a photo than in a mirror.  Hopefully you found some sweaters that made you feel good – and followed the guidelines.  Note any trends in your preferences, so that you can then use those to highlight in future Ravelry pattern searches. 

One last bit of work is remaining, and it is math.  Simple math.  An important component of your happiness in a sweater is its ease.  Ease is the difference between your body measurement and the garment’s measurement.  More ease gives you a baggy, relaxing fit, and less ease (even negative ease) will give you a Hollywood starlet va-va-va-voom fit.  To calculate ease, subtract your measurement from the sweater’s measurement.  Ease is usually calculated at the bust, but can also be a factor at the hip or upper arm.  The amount of ease will change based on the gauge of the sweater.  Bulkier knits need more and finer knits less, so be sure to note that. 

Now you’ve got lots of information on the design details which flatter your body, and the amount of ease you like in your garments.  Take this to Ravelry and start the hunt for your perfect sweater.